Surfing is also a verb meaning "To browse the World Wide Web"
Surfing is a water sport. It is done in the ocean or sea, where the surfer uses his surfboard to catch a wave, and ride in towards the shore.
Surfing was invented by the Polynesians, at least 4000 years ago.
History of surfing
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The history of surfing is shrouded in the mists of time, as the origins of surfing are unknown. Jackson Crane, an American serving under explorer Captain Cook, was the first American to witness surfing in Hawaii in the late 1700s.
Surfing was a central part of Ancient Hawaiian culture. The chief was the most skilled wave rider in the community with the best board made from the best tree. The ruling class had the best beaches and the best boards, and the commoners were not allowed on the same beaches, but they could gain prestige by their ability to ride the surf on their extremely heavy boards.
When the missionaries from Scotland and Germany arrived in 1821, they forbade or discouraged Hawaiian traditions and cultural practices, including leisure sports such as surfing and holua sledding. By the 20th century, surfing, along with other traditional practices, had all but disappeared. Only a small number of Hawaiians continued to practice the sport and the art of crafting boards.
Around the beginning of the 20th century, Hawaiians living close to Waikiki began to revive surfing, possibly in protest to the illegal overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom, and soon re-established surfing as a sport. Duke Kahanamoku, "Ambassador of Aloha," Olympic medalist, and avid waterman, helped expose surfing to the world. Author Jack London wrote about the sport after having attempted surfing on his visit to the islands. Surfing progressed tremendously in the 20th century, through innovations in board design and ever increasing public exposure.
Surfing's development and culture was centered primarily in three locations: Hawaii, Australia, and California. Until the 1960s, it had only a small following even in those areas. The release of the film Gidget boosted the sport's popularity immensely, moving surfing from an underground culture into a national fad and packing many surf breaks with sudden and previously unheard of crowds. B-movies and music based on surfing and Southern California beach culture (Beach Party films) as it exploded, formed most of the world's first ideas of surfing and surfers. This conception was revised again in the 1980s, with newer mainstream portrayals of surfers represented by characters like Jeff Spicoli from Fast Times at Ridgemont High.
Regardless of its usually erroneous portrayal in the media, true surfing culture continued to evolve quietly by itself, changing decade by decade. From the 1960s fad years to the creation and evolution of the short board in the late 60s and early 70s to the performance hotdogging of the neon-drentched 1980s and the epic professional surfing of the 1990s (typified by Kelly Slater, the "Micheal Jordan of Surfing").
Surfing Documentaries have been one of the main ways in which surfing culture grows and replenishes itself, not just as a sport but as an artform, the style and quality of surf films have often tracked well the evolution of the sport.
Surfing continues to evolve and grow as a sport, an art, and a way of life. The evolution of board design, wave riding techniques, and the ever increasing presence of competitive surfing has kept surf culture vibrant and intact.
Though still centered primarily around Hawaii, Australia, and California, surfing has been expanded to just about anywhere there are waves, particularly Brazil, Indonesia, Costa Rica, Puerto Rico, South Africa, Spain, and France. Plus there are now notable surf communities in such diverse locations as Florida, Ireland, Alaska, Jamaica, Peru, and even North America's Great Lakes.
I like Surf.
I am a women who can not swim but I have experienced in diving,
It’s shallow diving. I was not want to dive but I must dive because my daugthers go to dive on our tour at Ko Phoda Thailand. I worry about my daugthers because they are little girls (8 and 10 years old). That experience make me like the sea and all sea sport but I can not swim?
Surfing is a surface water sport in which the participant is carried along the face of a breaking wave as it approaches shore, usually on a surfboard. In addition to surfboards, surfers make use of kneeboards, body boards (aka boogie boards), kayaks, surf skis and their own bodies. Surfing-related sports such as paddleboarding and sea kayaking do not require waves. Other derivative sports such as kitesurfing and windsurfing rely on wind for power.
Two major classifications within the sport reflect differences in surfboard design: longboarding and shortboarding.
In tow-in surfing (often associated with big wave surfing), the surfer is towed into the wave by a motorized water vehicle, such as a jetski, because standard paddling is often ineffective when trying to match a large wave's higher rate of speed.
The first European record of surfing in Hawaii comes from Lieutenant James King,, who completed the journals of Captain James Cook upon Cook's death in 1779. At the time, surfing had already been an integral part of indigenous Hawaiian culture for generations. Native Hawaiian surfers rode waves lying down, sitting or standing on long, hardwood boards. Surfing was as much a part of native Hawaiian life as any major sport is part of western life today, if not more. It permeated every part of Hawaiian society, including religion and myth. Hawaiian chiefs would demonstrate and confirm their authority by the skills they displayed in the surf.
Surfers and surf culture
Surfers represent a diverse culture based on riding the naturally occurring process of ocean waves. Some people practice surfing as a recreational activity while others demonstrate extreme devotion to the sport by making it the central focus of their lives.
The sport has become so popular that surfing now represents a multi-billion dollar industry. Some people make a career out of surfing by receiving corporate sponsorships, competing in contests, or marketing and selling surf related products, such as equipment and clothing. Other surfers separate themselves from any and all commercialism associated with surfing. These soul surfers, as they are often called, practice the sport purely for personal enjoyment and many even find a deeper meaning through involving themselves directly with naturally occurring wave patterns and subscribe to egocentric philosophies, or ecosophies.
Surfing begins with the surfer eyeing a rideable wave on the horizon and then matching its speed (by paddling or sometimes, in huge waves, by tow-in). A common problem for beginners is not even being able to catch the wave in the first place, and one sign of a good surfer is being able to catch a difficult wave that other surfers cannot.
Once the wave has started to carry the surfer forward, the surfer quickly jumps to his or her feet and proceeds to ride down the face of the wave, generally staying just ahead of the breaking part (white water) of the wave (in a place often referred to as "the pocket" or "the curl"). This is a difficult process in total, where often everything happens nearly simultaneously, making it hard for the uninitiated to follow the steps.
Surfers' skills are tested not only in their ability to control their board in challenging conditions and/or catch and ride challenging waves, but also by their ability to execute various maneuvers such as turning and carving. Some of the common turns have become recognizable tricks such as the "cutback" (turning back toward the breaking part of the wave), the "floater" (riding on the top of the breaking curl of the wave), and "off the lip" (banking off the top of the wave). A newer addition to surfing has been the progression of the "air" where a surfer is able to propel oneself off the wave and re-enter.
"Tube riding" is when a surfer maneuvers into a position where the wave curls over the top of him or her, forming a "tube" (or "barrel"), with the rider inside the hollow cylindrical portion of the wave. This difficult and sometimes dangerous procedure is arguably the most coveted and sought after goal in surfing.
"Hanging Ten" and "Hanging Five" are moves usually specific to longboarding. Hanging Ten refers to having both feet on the front end of the board with all ten of the surfer's toes off the edge, also known as noseriding. Hanging Five is having just one foot near the front, and five toes off the edge.
Surfing, like all water sports, carries the inherent danger of drowning. Although a surfboard may assist a surfer in staying buoyant, it cannot be relied on for floatation, as it can be separated from the user. The use of a leash, which is attached at the ankle, keeps the surfer connected to the board. The leash is a safeguard which helps reduce the chance of drowning, though there are circumstances, such as unconsciousness and the board becoming entangled or caught in a rip current, where its effectiveness is compromised. To combat these dangers, surfers often surf in pairs or groups.
A large number of injuries, up to 66%, are caused by impact of either a surfboard nose or fins with the surfer's body. Surfboard fins can cause deep lacerations and cuts as well as bruising due to their shape. While these injuries can be minor, they can open the skin to infection from the sea; groups like SAS campaign for cleaner waters to reduce this risk.
There is also a danger of collision from objects under the water surface. These include sand, coral and rocks. Collisions with these objects may cause unconsciousness or even death.
Various types of sealife can cause injuries and even fatalities. Depending on the location of the surfing activity, animals such as sharks, stingrays, and jellyfish may be a danger to surfers.
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